Eve Of The War

How to scratch build Trim's Fighting Machine
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Author:  Loz [ Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:33 am ]
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So that's three times then? Each leg that is. Multilpied by three? Three of them you say but your just showing us one? But we three it up?

Author:  oever532 [ Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:11 pm ]
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Correct. :D

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Mon Apr 03, 2006 6:50 pm ]
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Loz wrote:
So that's three times then? Each leg that is. Multilpied by three? Three of them you say but your just showing us one? But we three it up?
I knew I would have trouble from 'The Hard of Thinking', At least it shows you are reading them now and not just looking at the pretty pictures! :lol:

And what the hell is 'Multilpied'......? :D

Author:  Loz [ Mon Apr 03, 2006 10:54 pm ]
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It's not unlike a millipied but with less legs and is omnvierous rather than a herbivour.

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:12 am ]
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Well there's only three legs on a FM but it seems more, so here goes.

Step 89. Creating The Lower sections of The Legs.
The lower sections of the legs are 29cm long and made of three 5mm tubes.
Plug the lower end of the each tube with a small ball of Milliput.
Half fill the tubes with Polyurethane resin and before it sets, slide a 30cm bicycle spoke down the tube. fill the tube to the top with resin and leave to set, this should leave about 1.5cm of spoke sticking out of the tube.
NOTE. Cut the mushroom part off the end of the spoke or you will never get it down the tube. :roll:

Step 90.
When the resin has set, mark the centres of the tubes with a black marker (or something that won't rub off) using a coarse sandpaper, chamfer the tubes to half their thickness, from the black mark down to the bottom of the leg.

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Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:11 pm ]
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Step 91.
This is the bottom of the leg where the foot will be fitted later, so these pictures are upside-down, I thought of putting them up the other way but that just looked even more confusing :?
When you have made 3 of these chamfered Leg sections, glue them together with Liquid Poly, so that the flat surfaces are facing inwards.
Only glue as far as the black line you marked on earlier, beyond the black line the rods will begin to separate until they are about 2mm from each other, this is as it should be.

When the glue has set you should be left with a small triangular hole running down the centre of the leg, cut a 6cm length of spoke and super-glue it in this hole leaving 3cm sticking out.

Step 92. Joining the Upper & Lower Parts of the Leg Together.
You can use either Polyurethane resin or Milliput for this next stage, I used Milliput because it's cleaner and gives you more working time.
So roll out three sausages of Milliput and insert them into the 7mm tubes of the upper leg section and gently push the three spokes sticking out of the top of the lower leg section into the Milliput until the plastic tubes of the upper and lower leg sections meet.
Lay the joined leg down on a flat surface and make sure the leg is straight.
Leave to set (this could take 2 - 3 hours).

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Author:  Loz [ Fri Apr 07, 2006 10:51 am ]
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Exerlent! =D>

Author:  oever532 [ Fri Apr 07, 2006 3:28 pm ]
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AWESOME! Keep it up!

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:37 pm ]
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Step 93.
mold a small lump of Milliput around the spoke at the bottom of the leg and when it has set use a flat file to round it off.

Cut three of these out of ¼mm card.

Step 94.
using epoxy glue, stick a small lump of Milliput in the centre of the cutout and fold the sides of the toes up till they meet, Super-glue together.

Step 95.
Super-glue the three wedge shaped pieces of card in position (narrow end down).

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Author:  Guest [ Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:45 pm ]
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Awesome work - can't wait to see the finished result! :)

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Thu Apr 13, 2006 1:08 am ]
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Eagle wrote:
Awesome work - can't wait to see the finished result! :)
Nor can I,
I'm almost there, another ten or so pictures should see it finished.
Have you had a go at making it yet?

And welcome to the forum :D

Author:  Guest [ Thu Apr 13, 2006 6:15 am ]
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Hi, thanks. :)

I have little time to build these days but I just might attempt a Fighting Machine from Comet Miniatures. I usually comission stuff. :)

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:03 pm ]
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:lol: It was due to my dissatisfaction with the Comet Miniature models that I started this thread, they seem to have added bits to the Fighting Machine & Handling Machine that are not on the original Blueprints or paintings and only spoil Trim's design. [-(

Author:  oever532 [ Fri Apr 14, 2006 5:52 am ]
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Can you give us any details about that?

Author:  Loz [ Fri Apr 14, 2006 9:53 am ]
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Remember the pictures H_C posted? The eyes were all wrong. To seperate domes rather than the cleavage look. Looked all wrong, but H_C said that was going to get changed.

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Sat Apr 15, 2006 4:45 pm ]
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And the thick collar around the Handling Machine's body. :a009:

Author:  Loz [ Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:03 pm ]
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Good job we've got you. \:D/ Now if only I had your frickin skill!!!!! ](*,)

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:54 pm ]
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Loz wrote:
Good job we've got you. \:D/ Now if only I had your frickin skill!!!!! ](*,)
You don't need skills, just follow my instructions :wink:

Step 96. Collars Around the Legs.
The collars around the legs are perfectly cylindrical so the best material to make them out of is 0.1 or 0.2 polystyrene sheet. (I used 0.1).
Cut a strip long enough to wrap loosely around the leg 10mm deep (the cylinders for the top part of the leg is 7mm deep) Using Liquid Poly, glue one end of the strip to the join between the different sections of tube at a 90° angle to the leg. when the glue has set wrap the rest of the strip around the leg tight enough to touch the tubes of the leg but not enough to distort the cylinder. cut to length and glue in position (Make the join on the inside of the leg where it won't show)
When the glue has dried roll out small sausages of Milliput and gently push them down between the leg tubes and the collars (be careful not to distort those collars) smooth off the top of the Milliput and leave to set. you can do the same for the box sections around the upper leg.

Step 97. Drilling the Holes for the Legs and Stabilizing Struts.
Using a 2mm drill bit make holes for the bicycle spoke sticking out of the upper leg section at a 70° angle from the vertical. Do the same for the stabilizing struts at a 125° angle from the vertical.

Step 98.
Press a small disc of Milliput onto the inside surface of the third collar of each leg. a little epoxy glue would help to make a good bond.
When set, drill a 2mm hole through the centre of the disc and into the tubes of the legs until the drill bit reaches the spoke, at roughly the angle shown, it's only going to be 3 to 4mm deep so the angle is not that critical.

Step 99. Attaching the Legs.
For this stage the body of the FM must be perfectly level side to side and front to back, and raised off the ground at the exact height to attach the legs with the bottom of the legs just touching the ground to take the strain. start with the rear leg, apply epoxy glue to the length of the spoke and to the base of the 'Leg to Body Connector Box' slide the spoke into the hole in the tail section and make sure the leg is vertical, remove any excess glue before it sets. repeat for the side legs but rather than setting the leg vertically it looks better if the bottom of the leg is angled slightly forward of the top of the leg, by about 5°.


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Author:  oever532 [ Sun Apr 16, 2006 6:23 am ]
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It's getting so cool! :D =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 5:21 pm ]
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Step 100.
Fill the centre of the foot and the ends of the toes with Milliput, when set smooth and round off the tips of each toe with fine emery paper.
Drill a 2mm hole in the centre of the foot at a 5°angle.

Step 101.
Carefully lift one of the legs and fit a foot on the end of the spoke, rotating the foot until it lays flush with the ground, repeat with the other feet, when you are happy all the feet are level, Super-glue in position.

Cut three lengths of bicycle spoke for the Stabilizing Struts.
The front leg struts need to be about 12cm long and the rear leg strut, about 14cm long.

Step 102.
To create the piston effect of the Stabilizing Struts I dipped half the spoke in a tin of Gloss Enamel paint (DO NOT USE NON-DRIP PAINT) and hung it up by a cotton thread to dry, repeat this until you have a thick layer of paint on the spoke, dip the spoke again but not as deep as before repeat this until the paint is the same thickness as the first piston layers, Leave in a warm place to dry, when completely dry, offer it up to the body so you can see how much of the spoke will go into the side-pods on the main body, mark the paint at this point and with a scalpel cut through and remove the paint from the end of the spoke.

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Author:  oever532 [ Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:47 pm ]
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Groovy! It's getting more and more complete

Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Sun Apr 23, 2006 11:49 pm ]
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Step 103.
Push the stripped end of the stabilizing strut into the side pod on the body with a little epoxy glue.
If you have drilled your holes at the correct angles the other end of the strut should rest against the leg next to the strut attachment hole.

Step 104.
Carefully flex the leg out just a little until the other end of the strut pops into the hole, put a spot of Super-glue to fix it when you are happy with the position of the leg, repeat for the other legs.

Your FM should be ridged enough to stand by itself.

Step 105. The Heat-Ray
I am copying the Heat-Ray from the album cover rather than from the original blueprints because I think it looks much better.
So cut a 4cm length of bicycle spoke and paint dip like before, drill a hole in the centre of the Heat-Ray port (you decide what angle you want) glue it in with a little epoxy glue.

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Author:  oever532 [ Mon Apr 24, 2006 5:40 am ]
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Author:  Lonesome Crow [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:39 am ]
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Not far to go now \:D/ [-o<

Author:  Loz [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:41 pm ]
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Then you can build me one. :a112:

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