oever532 wrote:
Keep up the good work!
That's it, it's finished. stick some legs on it and it's done.
| Eve Of The War http://www.focusgaming.co.uk/eveofthewar/ |
|
| How to scratch build Trim's Fighting Machine http://www.focusgaming.co.uk/eveofthewar/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1243 |
Page 3 of 6 |
| Author: | oever532 [ Wed Mar 08, 2006 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Keep up the good work! |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
oever532 wrote: Keep up the good work!
That's it, it's finished. stick some legs on it and it's done.
|
|
| Author: | oever532 [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, it would be more appropiate to have THE legs of the Fighting Machine, and not just some branches, toothpics or something like it... 
|
|
| Author: | Loz [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've used my own legs on mine. |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sat Mar 11, 2006 12:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Loz wrote: I've used my own legs on mine.  Aren't your legs a bit small?, at this stage your model should be 72 foot long X 32 foot high and weigh about 4 tons. Or have I given you the wrong measurements? 
|
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 9:47 pm ] | ||||
| Post subject: | |||||
Step 74. I almost forgot the circular hole at the front. I always thought this was a spotlight but H_C says it's a loudspeaker. So using the horizontal groove that runs around the front section of the body and the same dots you used to position the hood, mark in the center of the hole. The circle wants to be a little narrower than the Hear-Ray port. Step 75. You'll need a very sharp knife and a steady hand for this stage. Cut around the circle but only ¾ of the way through. carefully lift out the cut circle (Cardboard is made up in layers so this should be easy) Smooth with fine emery paper. Step 76. Fill any joins in the cardboard sections of the tail with Milliput and smooth with emery paper when set.
|
|||||
| Author: | oever532 [ Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
And what about the funnel for the Heat-Ray? |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Mon Mar 13, 2006 11:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
 Little things like that will be added at the final stage, if you stuck it on now you would only snap it off
|
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:42 am ] | ||
| Post subject: | |||
I have been wondering about the number of tubular sections there are in the upper part of the legs. It clearly says there are 'Three tubular sections with circular intersections' but I think this is only for the lower part of the leg, the Thunder Child picture shows what looks like a square arrangement of tubes with a square intersection, this would suggest four tubes, all the other pictures (those that are detailed enough) seem to show the same arrangement except the Dead London picture and that seems to show only two tubular sections in the upper leg. The Handling Machine picture (at the bottom) says the upper leg has 'four tube sections' and the lower leg has ' three tube sections' so I'll go with this arrangement for the Fighting Machine as well, it looks right to me.
|
|||
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:52 pm ] | |||
| Post subject: | ||||
Trim says all three legs are identical in construction, this should make things easier in the long run. I am using 5mm & 7mm polystyrene tub for the long parts of the legs (you can get this from any model shop). the tapered parts of the legs are going to be made of Milliput, these need to taper from 7mm down to 5mm and you are going to need to make 33 of them  So to make things easy you can make this very simple device for mass-producing these tapered rods and make sure they are all identical.
Step 77. Tapered rod mass-production machine  .
You will need: 2 small sheets of glass or perspex. 2 lengths of squared wood, 7mm & 5mm thick. 6 nails. and some double sided sticky tape. Assemble all these parts as shown in assembly stage 77, the double sided sticky tape goes on the bottom of the lengths of wood to stop them sliding around. Put a small lump of mixed Milliput in-between the two pains of glass and push the top pain back and forth. this will produce a perfect tapered rod 7mm to 5mm, repeat this 21 times or until you have 21 rods
Note; leave the mixed Milliput for about 45 minutes before putting it in the device or it will just stick to the glass.
|
||||
| Author: | Horsell_Common [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lonesome Crow wrote: Step 74.
I almost forgot the circular hole at the front. I always thought this was a spotlight but H_C says it's a loudspeaker. When doing the interview last year with Mike Trim, I put this to him about the circular hole in the front of the cockpitt. I asked what this was, saying that many had suggested it was a light, but Mike said it was not and he said it surved no other purpose than for decoration. I commented on the machines having a possible external speaker for the siren calls of 'Aloo / Ulla' saying this could be used as that speaker and Mike agreed in the end. |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 11:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks H_C for clearing that up. Do you know anything else about Trim's design that may be of interest? e.g. what are the circular depressions on the top of the body?, What are the six rectangular holes under the cockpit? and Where is the Black Smoke launcher? 
|
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Thu Mar 16, 2006 11:53 pm ] | |||||
| Post subject: | ||||||
Step 78. To make the short tapered rods that are positioned adjacent to the egg shaped hinge, you need to move the wooden chocks in the rod machine closer to the centre, this will increase the angle while maintaining the 7mm to 5mm ratio and produce a shorter rod. Make 12 of these. Steps 79, 80 and 81. The next three pictures speak for themselves, Glue twelve of the long rods together in three groups of four. do the same with the twelve short rods. this should leave you with nine long rods, glue them together in three groups of three.
|
||||||
| Author: | oever532 [ Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
GREAT! Now we'll get to see the full version of the mighty Fighting Machine! |
|
| Author: | Horsell_Common [ Fri Mar 17, 2006 1:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lonesome Crow wrote: Thanks H_C for clearing that up.
Do you know anything else about Trim's design that may be of interest? e.g. what are the circular depressions on the top of the body?, What are the six rectangular holes under the cockpit? and Where is the Black Smoke launcher? The circular depressions on the top of the hood I think Mike said were just for decoration along with the 6 cut-outs in the hood. I always thought the 6 black cut-outs you see are some kind of air vents. One thing I did point out to Mike was the support strut pods on the side of the hull. The album cover painting shows the right side pod with the light fitted. The left side is differant in appearance. He couldn't remember why he did it this way. My idea was that it could be used as a Black Smoke launcher, then again the Heat Ray funnel could be also multi purpose and spray Black Smoke aswell as the Heat Ray & steam. |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks H_C. I came across these on the net the other day, I don't think they are official, The Martian is the one from G. Pal's 53 movie and there are several mistakes I have noticed, e.g. it says the side pods are "Disintegrator Projectors" like the ones in G. Pals movie again. Although they are inaccurate it would be interesting to see these blueprints a little clearer, Does anybody Know where there might be a better image of there pictures? |
|
| Author: | Horsell_Common [ Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have seen those before and your right - there not official. Last I heard JWM had jumped on the poor guy who had produced them. I was going to get a set but was too late. |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sat Mar 18, 2006 10:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
'oops!' 
|
|
| Author: | oever532 [ Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Uh oh... |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm OK, There's no profit in it for me, you're getting all this stuff for free, you lucky people
|
|
| Author: | oever532 [ Sun Mar 19, 2006 9:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks, Lonsome, you're the greatest. |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Mar 26, 2006 12:44 am ] | ||||
| Post subject: | |||||
Anyway back to the model Step 82. The Leg hinge. You are going to need a sheet of 4mm modeling Polystyrene (this is thicker than most model shops stock so you may need to glue a couple of 2mm sheets together) Cut the hinge sections out as directed in the cut out diagram (don't forget to mark the little dot in the centre of each oval you will need this later). Assemble the parts as shown with a 2mm high tensile steel rod (a bicycle spoke ) sandwiched between the upper and lower ovals. the steel rod wants a 70 degree bend in it about 14cm from one of the ends.
Step 83. Using a countersink or a large metal drill-bit (I used a 7mm bit) drill the shallow indentation in the centre of the ovals and smooth the edges of the ovals off with a sheet of fine emery paper.
|
|||||
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:00 am ] | |||||
| Post subject: | ||||||
Step 84. Glue two of the wedge shaped pieces of plastic you cut out of the hinge template, as shown in assembly stage 84. Leg to body connector box. I'm making this out of ¼mm card because it will be filled with Milliput and Milliput sticks to card better than it does to plastic. Step 85. After you have cut the box out fold it and glue it as shown. Step 86. Thread the leg parts onto the spoke as shown, the 'Leg to body connector box' wants to overlap the tapered rods by about 2mm as shown by the pencil marks on the rods. When you are happy with the position of all the parts glue them in place with the appropriate glue e.g. Liquid Poly for the modeling Polystyrene and Super-glue for the Milliput and card. If the holes down the centre of the tapered rods are not wide enough to permit the passage of the spoke, drill the holes wider with a 2mm drill-bit at a low speed.
|
||||||
| Author: | oever532 [ Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wow! So realistic! So freaikin' awesome! |
|
| Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Mon Apr 03, 2006 1:23 am ] | ||||
| Post subject: | |||||
I shall give instructions for just one of the legs to save confusion, you will have to do them three times, once for each leg. Step 87. Cut three lengths of 7mm polystyrene tube 6cm long and glue them together with 'Liquid Poly'. put a small ball of Milliput in one end of each tube to seal it, cut any extra Milliput off to form a flat surface. Cut out, of ¼mm card or modeling polystyrene the 'tapered rod box' (This is the boxed section halfway along the tapered rods of the shoulder part of each leg) Do Not fold and glue this together yet. Step 88. Slide the three tube section up the steel spoke of the lower leg so the open ends of the tubes are facing down. Glue these to the three tapered rods. Take your cutout of the 'tapered rod box' and wrap & glue it around the tapered rods of the shoulder section as shown in Assembly stage 88. Pack the 'Leg to Body Connector Box' with Milliput to add extra strength.
|
|||||
| Page 3 of 6 | All times are UTC |
| Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|