Eve Of The War http://www.focusgaming.co.uk/eveofthewar/ |
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How to scratch build Trim's Fighting Machine http://www.focusgaming.co.uk/eveofthewar/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1243 |
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sat Feb 11, 2006 12:15 am ] | |||||
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Step 32. Cut the clear plastic blister to fit the outline of the hole in the front of the pod, leave approximately a 1mm overlap. Step 33. Roll out a small quantity of mixed Milliput to 1mm thick and lay it over the front section of polystyrene and carefully cut the hole out till you can see the outline you drew. Step 34. When the front section has set, cover the rest of the pod (remember through all these stages keep offering up to make sure the pod still fits snugly to the body). Step 35. Using epoxy glue, stick the pod to the body (make sure all your vertical lines still match up) when the glue has set use a little Milliput to fill in any gaps and smooth the line of the pod to the body. Roll out a small piece of Milliput very, very thin and cut out two discs one smaller than the other (I used the cap off a fountain pen like a pastry cutter for the large and the cap off a ballpoint pen for the small one) Stick the large disc on the pod where the vertical and horizontal cardboard template crossed at the back then stick the smaller disc on top of it, smooth the edges of the two discs together with a little water. When set drill a hole in the centre of the discs, this is the pivot point for the leg stabilizing strut.
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Author: | oever532 [ Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:18 am ] |
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It's getting even better! You really keep me in suspense for the completed version. |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sat Feb 11, 2006 1:51 pm ] |
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We are getting close to a part I have been dreading, 'The tail section', it's easy enough to make but it's going to be difficult to describe how to make it. So I think I'll do the strip that runs along the back of the body next. |
Author: | Loz [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 7:44 pm ] |
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He he! |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:31 pm ] |
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Loz wrote: He he!
And what's tickled you? |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:45 pm ] | |||||
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Cutting out the back strip, The best way to do this is print out the 'Back strip cutout' picture below onto 200g card or higher, carefully cut out the circles and then roughly cut out the whole panel, spray the back with aerosol glue and stick it down to a sheet of 1mm cardboard do the same to the two crescent shapes. when the glue is fully dry carefully cut out along the dotted lines, cutting through both card and cardboard. Step 37.'3D curving' The back strip has to follow the curve of the FM's back, not only front to back but also side to side (you can't do this by bending it, you have to deform it) Lay your cut out back strip face down on something soft, a towel is best, and rub the back with a teaspoon, press down quite hard, this could take a while. keep offering it up to the body (the FM's body, not your body) to see if it fits. some cardboard's deform better when they are damp so try steaming it over a kettle for a few seconds before resuming with the spoon. Step 38. Cut out the crescent piece with the red dotted line on and glue it along the back edge of the back strip. Step 39. Offer up the back strip to the body (Make sure you are accurate, you don't want to get this bit wrong) and mark where the crescent touches the body, from one end of the Red dotted line to the other.
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Wed Feb 15, 2006 1:55 am ] | |||||
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Step 40. Using a hacksaw cut inside the line (Do not cut on the line) A hacksaw blade is about 1mm wide so it's perfect for the job. If your measurements are accurate the saw should cut through the body's fifth rib, Do not cut any deeper than the dotted line drawn for the back strip. Step 41. Offer the back strip up again and it should slot into the cut so that the back of the strip lies flush with the body at either sides but so you can still see the red dotted line, stick it in position with epoxy glue and while you are at it you can stick the other 1mm crescent on the back of the back strip, this is the anchor point for the tail section. Step 42 & 43. Marking out the leg holes. Taking measurements from the blueprints mark out the position of the leg holes as shown.
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:39 am ] | |||||
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Step 44. Cut out the holes for the legs, cutting short of the line and carefully trimming back to the line, remove about 1cm of the polystyrene as well. Print out the 'Leg Hole Inner Frame' template and glue it to 1mm cardboard. cut out along the blue dotted line but cut only half way through the cardboard along the red dotted line, this is so you can fold the template without creasing it. Step 45. Fold the templates as shown in assembly stage 45 you can run a little super-glue along the folds to strengthen them. slide them into the leg holes with a little epoxy glue. Step 46. To hold it in position while the glue sets run a little super-glue either side of the inner frame template.
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Author: | oever532 [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:01 am ] |
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WOW! It's getting more realistic! |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:36 pm ] |
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Have you started building one yet? |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:28 am ] | |||
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Step 47. Slide the two short cutout parts into position as shown, one goes in vertically and the other horizontally. Step 48. When you are happy with the positioning of the parts, run super-glue along all the joins, these inner frames have to take the weight of the FM so don't stint on the glue. Laying the flat edge of a scalpel upon the surface of the FM's body, slice off the cardboard protruding above the surface. Sandpaper back till smooth and flush with the rest of the models shell, apply a little super-glue to the freshly exposed cardboard and smooth again.
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:07 am ] | |||||
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Step 49. Your FM model should look something like this. THE HOOD. This looks tricky but it's not, it's just time consuming so you have to have a little patients. Using Trim's blueprints I have followed the arc of the Hood to see what size sphere I will need and a Ping Pong ball is about right. Step 50. Take one Ping Pong ball and smear a light coating of Vaseline on it, to act as a barrier (it stops the Milliput from sticking to your balls) Roll out some mixed Milliput to 1mm thickness and closely adapt it to the shape of the ball (do not go more than half way down the ball or you won't get it off) Step 51. When it has set, remove it from the ball and cut it down the middle.
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Author: | oever532 [ Sun Feb 19, 2006 9:48 pm ] |
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And then...? Keep going! |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:15 am ] | ||||
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These pictures don't draw themselves you know, Give me a chance Step 52. Wash the Vaseline off the Milliput with warm water and detergent. Cut a thin crescent off each half, about 4mm in the middle tapering to nothing at the edges. Step 53. Super-glue the two halves together, it's a good idea to hold the two halves together with a bit of Blue-tack on the back before applying glue. Step 54. Draw a line about ¼ the way down the hood (The line must be at a right-angle to the join) and using a hacksaw, cut it off.
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Author: | oever532 [ Mon Feb 20, 2006 6:39 am ] |
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If I wan't so busy in this period, I would've been making one right now! |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:10 pm ] | ||||
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That is a pathetic excuse Step 55. Trace the outline of the hood from the model onto either tracing paper or a piece of none flexible clear plastic. Make sure you draw the center line in. Step 56. Transfer your tracing to the hood, making sure the center line of the tracing matches the center line of the hood and that the top of the tracing matches the cut off line at the top of the hood. Step 57. Using a hacksaw or rotary cutter cut out the hood (cut outside the drawn lines).
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:49 am ] | ||||
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Step 58. Offer up the cut out hood to make sure your tracing is accurate, always make sure the centre of the hood lines up with the center of the body. This is where you have to be patient, you have to trim a little off and offer up and trim a little more off and offer up and keep on doing this until the hood fits inside the hood rim. Step 59. When the hood fits the hole (and make sure it's not too tight) roll a little Milliput into a thin sausage and press it into the polystyrene below the surface of the hood rim. Put the hood in position and press down until the profile of your model looks like Trimm's blueprints. Step 60. Check for gaps around the edges of the hood and fill any you find with a little Milliput.
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Author: | Klaatu [ Wed Feb 22, 2006 9:04 am ] |
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Those illustrations of yours are just superb Lonesome...They make the instructions very easy to understand. |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:38 pm ] |
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Cheers Klaatu. How to scratch build a FM in 100 easy steps |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Fri Feb 24, 2006 2:18 am ] | ||
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Just one picture today, but it will give you something to do while I create some more. Print this out and glue it to a sheet of ½ mm card. Cut out along the blue lines but cut only ¾ the way through the red line.
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:51 am ] | ||||
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Step 61. Lay the cut out top panel face down on a soft surface and using a long cylindrical object, such as a AA battery roll it back and forth over the centre panel (don't roll the attached side panels, they need to be straight) pay particular attention to the edges of the centre panel as these need curving more than the rest. Step 62. Super-glue the two cut out triangular panels, vertically, to the inside of the top panel, one end of the triangles base should line up with the end of the cut out bay in the top panel and this should leave a ½ mm gap at the open end of the bay. Step 63. Super-glue the left & right end panels to the back edge of the triangle only. Do not glue to the top panel yet.
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Sun Feb 26, 2006 2:24 pm ] | ||||
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Step 64. Place the Main Brace in position so the printed surface faces out. Step 65. Turn the whole thing over to check that the green lines on the Top panel and Main Brace line up. Put a spot of Super-glue to hold them together. Step 66. Turn it over again and run super-glue along the join between the Main Brace and the Left & Right End Panels. Then holding the Main Brace and the Top Panel together run Super-glue along the join and hold until set.
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Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Thu Mar 02, 2006 1:46 am ] | |||||
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Step 67. Turn the whole thing over again and hold the Top Panel and the End Panels together and add a spot of Super-glue. Step 68. Fold the Side Panels up and Super-glue them to the End Panels and the Main Brace. Step 69 - 70. Place the Bottom Panel in position and run Super-glue along all the joins.
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Author: | Loz [ Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:54 pm ] |
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Great stuff! |
Author: | Lonesome Crow [ Mon Mar 06, 2006 11:43 pm ] | ||||
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Step 71. using epoxy glue, stick a ball of mixed Milliput into the centre of the tail section (make sure the ball isn't too big or it might prevent the tail fitting onto the body) this is where the rear leg will be mounted so make sure the ball of Milliput is pushed well into all the angle. Step 72. Offer up the tail section to the body, you may need to do a little trimming to get it to fit, especially where I have marked orange on the picture. Step 73. When you are happy with the positioning of the tail, glue it in place with plenty of epoxy glue (this sets slower than Super-glue so you have more time for fine adjustments).
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